Winter Wanderings in Charlestown and Polkerris
It was so lovely to have my brother visit in December. We enjoyed some proper sibling time, revisiting a few favourite haunts and indulging his passion for good coffee and beer. I thought the best plan was a little tour of some fine local establishments, enjoying the wonderful views in between the showers.
Having grown up in Cornwall, my brother is no stranger to these parts, but these days it is a modern metropolis that he calls home. Well, Coventry actually, up country. Trips down here are rare but thoroughly enjoyed by us all, so I was glad to hang out with my kid brother and catch up.
Coffee and cobbles in Charlestown
The first chance we had to head out together came on a soggy and rather cold Saturday. He is not a great early riser, so my first thought was coffee.
We headed to Charlestown and managed to squeeze into Short & Strong, where my brother thoroughly enjoyed a V60 pour-over coffee. I had a vegan hot chocolate with hazelnut syrup, basically a liquid Ferrero Rocher! A delicious treat since I had to go dairy free. We both chose Cornish breakfasts and nattered away.
Full and warm, we wandered down to the harbour. I love it here. You can feel the history as you cross the well-worn cobbles.
The rain doubled down on its mission, so we popped into the newly refurbished Pier House. I had not been in since the fire, but my overall impression was that it felt lighter, brighter and more comfortable.
We found a sofa and settled down with a drink. My brother works in a specialist beer shop and deli for his day job, so he is always looking for something new to sample. Seeing how animated and happy he was to find a few St Austell ales on tap that he had not tried, I suggested heading to the brewery in town to see what else they had. No convincing needed. We were off!
Beer tasting at St Austell Brewery
Full confession: I rarely drink, especially when I am driving, but I love nothing more than making my family happy. An afternoon listening to my brother wax lyrical about the different thirds in front of him was perfect for me. I think he bought half the shop!
We sat happily in the bar, watching the mist descend beyond the large windows while he tasted his way through much of what was on tap.
A winter afternoon in Polkerris
Later that week, with Mum and my sister in tow, we popped down the road to Polkerris and hunkered down in another favourite pub.
Polkerris is such a little beach, but it has always held a special place in my heart. If you walk the coast path from Par, you see the curving sea wall just as you begin to descend, looking like a welcoming hug.
When it comes to eating and drinking, there are two great options: The Rashleigh Inn and Sam’s. This time we chose the former.
With a fire roaring, twinkly lights and some decent drinks, we shared moreish chips and watched the waves. It always feels a little like being on a boat in this pub, I think.
I do miss the old pub cat, but the quirky charm remains, even if it is a little more polished these days. In summer, few things beat sitting outside as the sun sinks into the sea.
After our drinks, we stepped onto the sand to say hello to the waves, with Mum getting a little carried away in her wellies until one splashed over the top and soaked her toes!
Earlier that day, we had visited my dad’s grave, so moments like these felt all the more precious. It is such a lovely part of Cornwall, and I find exploring it in winter feels a little more real. When the sun cuts through the grey mizzle, there’s nowhere better. Happy memories made.
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