Take Me to the Roseland: Porthcurnick, Porthbean and St Mawes

The beach below The Hidden Hut at Porthcurnick on the Roseland © Emma Julian

If there is one part of Cornwall that feels like an escape, to me it is the Roseland. Even the name given to this peninsula feels romantic. It is about 40 minutes from me but feels a world away. Life stands still, and I feel immersed in the beauty of Cornwall.

There are still plenty of nooks I am yet to explore, and I do tend to stick to my favourite haunts, but it truly feels as though the sun always shines and cares are cast away. Of course, the sun is no guarantee, especially as we breeze into October, but I recently spent an idyllic afternoon walking along part of the coastal path with my friend. The sun on our faces, the waves lapping and the bunnies leaping. Yes, bunnies. We took a shortcut across the fields and were treated to a panoramic ocean view.

The Hidden Hut and Porthcurnick Beach

Delicious Spanish-inspired chicken with chorizo in a warming tomato sauce. I had a gluten-free roll instead of couscous. Lovely. © Emma Julian

The menu changes daily and is cooked in the open kitchen on site. © Emma Julian

I had a rare free Saturday, as did my equally busy friend, so we headed off to make the most of this jewel of a day. I was showing her The Hidden Hut, hardly a 'hidden' gem, but always a delight to visit. This late September Saturday was the perfect choice. We found free parking on the road (oh joy!) and hardly a queue as we chose a table overlooking Porthcurnick Beach below. I should mention that all the seating is outside, so you do need to pick your day well.

It has a lovely atmosphere. Wildflowers on the tables, every kind of dog you can imagine sitting happily with their owners, and freshly cooked food sizzling over open coals. The menu is always delicious but a bit of a gamble for me now I have discovered all these food intolerances (sad day). They were helpful and flexible, and my Spanish-inspired chicken and chorizo was perfectly balanced and very moreish.

Porthcurnick Beach lies directly below The Hidden Hut, which is tucked away from view behind the beach. It is usually well populated, so on previous occasions I have taken my food and my friends to the nearby field to enjoy the view in perfect peace. On this particular day, however, the beach had just the odd swimmer, an excitable dog and some engrossed children staring into their buckets, transfixed by the treasures they had found.

The South West Coast Path above Porthcurnick Beach © Emma Julian

A coastal walk to Porthbean Beach

Porthbean Beach on the Roseland © Emma Julian

We started our walk through my favourite field, passing the lookout station near Portscatho before turning left and winding our way down to the next beach. It has the most adorable name: Porthbean. When the tide is out, you can walk on to the next beach too.

This is a favourite spot. It is so peaceful, with the water gleaming and clear and the rocks jutting through the sand in intriguing formations. Apart from the odd dog or fellow explorer to smile at, there was real peace. My idea of a perfect Cornish day.

The jagged rocks divide the beach in two. At low tide, you can walk to the other side. © Emma Julian

St Mawes and more of the Roseland

Of course, the Roseland's best-known draw is probably St Mawes. I remember that, while studying in Falmouth, a boat trip here was a wonderful distraction. Leaving behind essays and computers to tuck into a seriously good pasty, wander the alleyways, explore the castle and pick out the house I would live in (something my friends and I always did) made it the perfect getaway.

Looking across to St Mawes Castle © Emma Julian

Recently, I took another friend here for some escapism. She had grown up around these parts, and you could see what a balm it was for her soul to be ankle-deep in the water on lovely Summers Beach.

Summers Beach at St Mawes © Emma Julian

Since I was at university many moons ago, St Mawes has become even more of a foodie destination. You are spoilt for choice, with plenty of places to eat boasting sea views. Other gems in the Roseland's crown include St Just, Veryan and Portloe.

Peaceful St Mawes in May © Emma Julian

Even just driving around this part of Cornwall seems to bring a sense of calm. Thatched cottages and aged, weather-worn stone houses stand grand and intriguing as you wind your way along. Although I can imagine this kind of Cornish lane might strike terror into some people, I love it. That is my kind of driving. Give me cities, roundabouts and too many options, and I am much more likely to panic!

There is still plenty I want to explore: inlets and river walks, the Italianate gardens at St Mawes, and a seemingly endless number of pubs welcoming hounds and weary souls with roaring fires, local brews and reading nooks. Thankfully, this corner of Cornwall can still beckon me even as the sun retreats and the colder days set in.