Take Me To The Roseland

The Beach below the Hidden Hut, Porthcurnick on the Roseland © Emma Julian

If there is one part of Cornwall that feels like an escape, to me it's the Roseland. Even the name given to this peninsular feels romantic! About 40 minutes from me but a world away, life stands still and I feel I'm immersed in the beauty of Cornwall. 

There is still plenty of nooks I am yet to explore, and I do tend to stick to my favourite haunts, but it truly feels like the sun always shines and cares are cast away. Of course the sun is no guarantee, especially as we breeze in to October, but I spent an idyllic afternoon walking round some coastal path with my friend recently. The sun on our face, the waves lapping and the bunnies leaping. Yes bunnies, as we took a short cut over the fields, treated by a panorama of ocean view. 

Delicious Spanish inspired chicken with chorizo and a warming tomato sauce. I had a gluten free roll instead of couscous, lovely. © Emma Julian

The menu changes daily and is cooked in the open kitchen on site. © Emma Julian

I had a rare free Saturday as did my equally busy friend so we headed off to make the most of this jewel of a day. I was showing her the Hidden Hut, hardly a 'hidden' gem, but a delight to visit when I can. This late September Saturday was the perfect choice. Free parking on the road (oh joy!) and hardly a queue as we picked our table over looking Porthcurnick beach below (I should mention all seating is outside so you do need to pick your day well). It does have a lovely vibe. Wild flowers on the tables, every kind of dog you can imagine sitting happily with their owners, fresh cooked food sizzling on open coals. The menu is always delicious but a bit of a gamble for me now I have discovered all these food intolerances (sad day). They were helpful and flexible and my Spanish tasting chicken and chorizo was perfectly balanced and very moorish. 

The beach directly below the Hidden Hut, so called because it sinks from view behind the beach, is normally well populated. So on previous occasions I have grabbed my food and my friends and headed to the near by field to enjoy the view in perfect peace. However that day the beach below had the odd swimmer, excitable dog and some engrossed children staring into their buckets transfixed with the treasures they had found. 

Coastal Path just up from Porthcurnick Beach © Emma Julian

Porthbean Beach on The Roseland © Emma Julian

We started our walk by way of my favourite field, passing the Porthscatho lookout station and along to the left, winding our way down to the next beach. It has the most adorable name, Porthbean, when the tide is out you can wander to the next one too. This is a favourite spot, so peaceful, the water gleaming and clear, the rocks in intriguing formations, jutting up through the sands. Perhaps the odd dog or fellow explorer to smile at, but apart from that real peace. My idea of a perfect Cornish day.

The jagged rocks divide the beach in two, at low tide you can walk to the other side. © Emma Julian

Of course the Roseland's most well known draw is probably St Mawes. I remember while studying in Falmouth a boat trip here was a wonderful distraction. To be able to leave behind essays and computers and instead tuck into a seriously good pasty whilst picking out the house I would live in (something my friends and I always did), to wonder the alleyways and explore the castle, it was the perfect getaway. 

Looking across to the castle at St Mawes © Emma Julian

Recently I took another friend here for some escapism, she had actually grown up round these parts and you could see what balm it was for her soul to be ankle deep in water on lovely Summers beach. 

Peaceful St Mawes in May last year © Emma Julian

Since I was at uni (many moons ago) St Mawes has become even more of a foodie destination, you are spoilt for choice with plenty of eateries boasting sea views. Other gems in the Roseland crown are St Just, Veryan and Portloe. 

Even just driving round this area of Cornwall seems to bring the calm. Thatched cottages, aged and weather-worn stone houses stand grand and intriguing as you wind your way around. Though I can imagine these kind of Cornish lanes might spike terror for some, I love it. That's my kind of driving, give me cities and roundabouts and options and I'm much more likely to panic!

There is plenty I still want to explore, inlets and river walks, the gardens at St Mawes with an Italian flavour and what seems to be endless pubs welcoming hounds and weary souls. Tempting me with roaring fires, local brews and reading nooks. Thankfully meaning this corner of Cornwall can still becon me even as the sun retreats and the colder days set in. 

Summers Beach St Mawes © Emma Julian