The Charming Readymoney Cove
One of my closest beaches is the postcard-perfect Readymoney Cove at Fowey. A favourite of mine for its charm, to me this beach is the perfect family spot with a tiny but well stocked shop selling delicious ice creams and crafty keepsakes. There is a handy loo too and a quirky structure that provides shelter when the weather is less obliging, with a grassy roof complete with turrets giving a sandcastle feel. An idyllic spot to sit and gaze at the sea.
Up until recently I had mainly been here on winter days (see my photos above), where a mug of hot chocolate was gratefully purchased. We sheltered under the covered terrace and watched the brave swimmers charge fearlessly into the freezing sea.
However my most recent trip was a spontaneous thing, I had an hour spare and the sun was warm and my mum keen, so we headed to Fowey in search of ice cream with a perfect view. Parking in the carpark up the hill we walked down the little path flanked by wild flowers and swaying grass. When you first catch a glimpse of the sea framed by majestic trees, peering through the pink flowers as a sail boat coasts by - it's magical.
The walk down the road is a little steep so beware but it's very pleasant with lovely cottages and a few grand homes that invite the curious sneak to a peek and imagine. The large Italian style house that rises from the cliffs is Point Neptune, built in the 1860s for local landowner William Rashleigh.
However it is the curious old limekiln that provides Readymoney with its Famous Five character. The building has three turrets and was built in 1819 for the Rashleigh's Menabilly estate. It's thought to have been the site for a pilchard seller, now the limekiln houses a water pumping station. It was in the 1930s that the structure was converted to its current form, to commemorate the silver jubilee of King George V.
The name for this lovely beach, Readymoney, comes from the Cornish word 'redeman' which means 'shallow ford' or 'stepping stones' so nothing to do with tolls or pirates as I have in the past pondered.
The house right behind the beach was once rented by famous Cornish author Daphne Du Maurier before she moved to Menabilly (known as Mannerly in the book), the much grander house that is said to have inspired her famous novel Rebecca. In fact Du Maurier's presence can be felt all over this area with her novels Jamaica Inn inspired by a pub on the moors, House on the Strand at Tywardreath and Frenchman's Creek further down on the Helford river. She's a great holiday read!
The beach itself is a lovely size, with rocks both left and right to clamber on and a pontoon in the summer to swim out too. Boats sail by and kids splash happily. Dogs are allowed in season, but only morning and evening. Readymoney Beach Shop have a helpful website if you need to check the latest.
To the right of the cove is a woodland walk (a steep one) to the ruins of St Catherine's castle. It was a gun tower that was built between 1538-40 by Thomas Treffey as part of Henry V111 national defence programme. Used in WW2 as well, to protect the harbour.
This little beach is such a pleasant spot, after you have had your fill of sun and salty sea you can always walk along the road to Fowey's town centre. The view is lovely across the harbour and to the village of Polruan. You can catch a car ferry there and enjoy a lovely pub meal on the other side. (Right by one of Daphne Du Maurier's other houses!)
Fowey is a town full of picture perfect moments and joyful views. The food here is good too, with Spanish tapas, fresh wood-fired pizza and the original Sam's seafood restaurant to name a few. Summer season is when the establishments truly come alive. A trading place since the Bronze Age, you can feel the history. The narrow streets are filled with quirky shops with an aquarium and museum too.
So much still to explore, I must come back again soon.
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