Readymoney Cove: A Sheltered Beach Near Fowey

Readymoney Cove is one of my closest beaches and one of those places that feels instantly familiar. Tucked just outside Fowey, it has a sheltered sweep of sand, clear water, a tiny beach shop and a curious turreted shelter that gives the whole cove a slightly Famous Five character.

On a sunny day it is a lovely family spot, with rocks to explore and boats slipping past the mouth of the river. When the weather is less obliging, there is still shelter, a hot drink and a very pleasant view of the sea.

Readymoney in winter and summer

Until recently, most of my visits had been on winter days. We would buy hot chocolate, settle beneath the covered terrace and watch braver people than us charge into the cold water.

My first proper summer visit was more spontaneous. I had an hour spare, the sun was warm and my mum was keen, so we headed towards Fowey in search of ice cream with a view.

The closest car park sits above the cove, so the journey begins with a pleasant downhill path and ends with the inevitable climb back. The path was edged with wildflowers and swaying grass, and the first glimpse of blue water appeared between the trees as a sailing boat passed below.

Readymoney can also be reached from the centre of Fowey along The Esplanade. It is a broadly level walk with views across the harbour, although the final approach to the beach is steeper.

A cove with a curious history

The large Italianate house rising from the cliff is Point Neptune, built in the 1860s for local landowner William Rashleigh. It is an impressive neighbour, but the building that gives Readymoney its distinctive character is the old limekiln beside the beach.

The limekiln was built in 1819 for the Rashleigh family as part of the Menabilly estate, possibly on the site of an earlier pilchard cellar. Its ornamental turrets were added around 1900, and the building now provides the wonderfully eccentric public shelter overlooking the sand.

The name Readymoney is thought to have developed from a Cornish place name meaning a shallow ford of stones. It is a much more practical origin than the tales of tolls, treasure and pirates that the name might otherwise suggest.

Readymoney Cottage, immediately behind the beach, was rented by Daphne du Maurier in 1941 and 1942 before she moved to nearby Menabilly. That house had inspired Manderley in Rebecca, and du Maurier’s connections can still be felt all around the Fowey estuary. She makes very appropriate holiday reading here.

Swimming, dogs and the beach shop

The sheltered beach is a manageable size, with rocks at either end and a swimming pontoon usually appearing during the summer. It is easy to see why families and swimmers return to it.

Dogs are welcome for most of the year, but they are not permitted on the beach between 10 am and 6 pm during July and August. Because restrictions can change, it is worth checking the current information before travelling.

Readymoney Beach Shop sells drinks, ice creams, beach essentials and gifts from local makers. The shop also keeps the public toilets beside the beach available, with at least one open throughout the day and night. Its website has current opening times, parking information and dog restrictions.

The walk to St Catherine’s Castle

From the right-hand side of the cove, a steep woodland path climbs towards the ruins of St Catherine’s Castle. The path can become muddy, but the views back across the cove and the Fowey estuary make the climb worthwhile.

The small artillery fort was built in the late 1530s as part of Henry VIII’s coastal defences, under the supervision of Thomas Treffry of Place House. It was altered again during the 19th century and used during the Second World War. The castle is now cared for by English Heritage and is free to visit during daylight hours, although there are uneven surfaces and unguarded drops.

You can find practical visiting information on the English Heritage website.

Continue into Fowey

After the beach, it is an easy walk along The Esplanade into Fowey, with views across the harbour towards Polruan. A passenger ferry crosses from the town to the village on the opposite bank, while the vehicle ferry runs further upriver between Fowey and Bodinnick.

Fowey itself is filled with narrow streets, independent shops, cafés, restaurants and glimpses of the water between the buildings. Readymoney works beautifully as a destination of its own, but it is also a lovely beginning or end to a day exploring the town.

I still have plenty left to discover around this part of the estuary, which is a very good reason to return.