A Long Weekend in Falmouth

View from our apartment to Flushing

After just having a lovely weekend away in Falmouth with my mum, I thought I would share some photos and thoughts with you here today. Returning to a place you have once lived is rather strange. There’s that sense of home, like something of this place is yours and always will be, but also the reminder that time moves on, that others have come and claimed and left their mark. It was about 18 years ago I was an art student here, so returning as a full grown-up was a lovely but strange thing to do. 

Of course I have had many a day trip over the years and visited friends but our lovely long weekend helped me more readily soak up the new atmosphere. My main impression of how Falmouth has changed is that it has become a bit more cool and a bit more foodie-focusesed. There was of course the arty air before, creativity and independence proudly worn on its sleeve, but as with a lot of Cornwall (my neighbouring Fowey for instance) there are restaurants galore popping up everywhere experimenting with great food. Understandibly this impression was perhaps more marked this time because I was visiting over the Falmouth Food Festival. We sampled this twice and enjoyed a real array of delights, from homemade ice cream to gluten free crepes (perfect for my mum) and delicious Italian pasta, my brother who visited us made the most of St Ives brewery bar and spicy delights. True, the weather sometimes raged but there was a lovely atmosphere and the music set the ambience quite perfectly.

Swans drinking water from a boat

Our little apartment was ideal with a balcony over looking the harbour. I think that was one of the best elements of Falmouth for my mum, the boats. There is just something really rather sublime sitting in the evening sun, looking out to Flushing and hearing the boots bob in the breeze as the sky turns pink. Bringing back precious memories from my student days. Friends up country might have been binge drinking to excess (the Naughties, go figure) but my uni experience was one of ferry trips across the water, a shandy in the pub, playing rounders on the green with a book and a hacky sack. It was coastal walks, tea and cake, and family-strength bonds with friends. One thing we loved to do on a Tuesday was grab a delicious date and walnut loaf from the farmer's market and some Applewood smoked cheese from Tescos and head to my flat, over a shop in town overlooking the harbour. There we would have a floor picnic whist watching the lunchtime Australian soap Neighbours. 

Sunshine and showers at Swanpool Beach

Beach huts at Swanpool Beach 

This time though I was determined to experience a tradition of Cornwall I had missed out on, the Swanpool beach Hedgehog ice cream. Oh my goodness it is large! Cornish ice cream dipped in clotted cream and rolled in caramelised hazelnuts! Heaven. Mum and I sat on the beach in the afternoon sun watching the dogs take their owners for a walk. It was different experiencing Falmouth with my mum, a gentler pace was needed. No long coastal walks for us this time, but plenty of opportunity to watch the swans, say hello to dogs and chat to people in cafes. 

Our adventures took us to the rescued donkeys at the Flika Sanctuary in Penryn. Adorable creatures happily buddied up and munching on hay. We also stopped by Verdant Brewery whilst in Penryn, a cosy escape on an industrial estate, making the most of my brother and his wealth of knowledge on beer. 

Stopping off for lunch at the Pandora Inn

Tasty Lunch at Pandora

The watchful eye of a seagull at The Chainlocker

Food was plentiful, our journey down allowed a lunch stop at the beautiful thatched Pandora Inn. We also had a visit to Namaste Indian restaurant, fragrant and delightful, and a totally transformed Chainlocker. Back in my day this humble pub was the place to go on a Sunday for two meals for seven pounds. Now beautifully kitted out, almost unrecognisably so, we enjoyed the sea view in the restaurant whilst tucking in to a satisfying Sunday roast. A few pennies more for sure but worth it. Though I do wonder where cash-strapped students eat these days. 

Boat trip to Malpas up the river, so peaceful 

Other highlights were a boat trip up the river to Malpas and a very drunk looking seal, sunning himself on a buoy! Fish and chips from Harbour Lights, just like back in the day. And shopping in the lovely vibrant high street. I am partial to the charity shops but also some really great clothes shops, antiques and seaside curiosities. 

Perfect setting for drawing boats

There was plenty we weren’t able to fit in, but I recommend if you have the time enjoy a drink at The Boat House, sampling the bold and beautiful small plates at Verdant’s Seafood Bar and I just love the fresh feel-goodness of Sabzi on the main street. We have also in the past enjoyed a drink on the terrace at the Gilly Beach Cafe. Great times to visit include when the tall ships descend, or the Sea Shanty Festival, where every corner comes alive with traditional folk signing. 

Falmouth is just such a great springboard to other places, Truro of course, but also catching the ferry to St Mawes is a charming day out with a tropical garden and castle to explore. We also used to love Trebah Gardens with a beach at the bottom. Oh and exploring the Helford river too, where you feel like you have stepped into a Famous Five novel, or perhaps more accurately a Daphne Du Maurier story like Frenchman’s Creek. 

The simplest pleasures though for us in our student days were little walks around side streets and finding patches of lawn with sketch book in hand to while away the afternoon. Perhaps up by the castle with its miniature ruin, looking out to sea.