The Stunning Lizard Peninsula

There is something about the Lizard Peninsula that always feels a little different from the rest of Cornwall. Perhaps it is the landscape, perhaps it is the long drive south, but by the time I arrive I always feel as though everyday life has been left somewhere behind me.

I keep coming back. There are dramatic beaches, quiet fishing villages, wooded creeks, wonderful walks and plenty of places where doing very little seems like an entirely reasonable way to spend the day.

Kynance Cove

Kynance Cove is one of those places that still manages to stop me in my tracks. Turquoise water, pale sand and huge rock stacks make it feel wonderfully dramatic, and at low tide even more of the beach, caves and rocks are revealed.

The walk down from the National Trust car park is part of the experience. It is steep in places, but the views open up beautifully as you make your way towards the cove. There is also a café down by the beach, which makes lingering for a while very easy indeed.

Kynance can become extremely busy during the summer, so this is one place where an earlier start, a quieter month or simply choosing your moment can make quite a difference.

You can find current parking, access and tide information on the National Trust's Kynance Cove page.

Lizard Point

From Kynance it feels only right to carry on towards Lizard Point, the most southerly point of mainland Britain. The cliffs here are exposed and wonderfully wild, with the open sea and coastal paths giving the place a real edge-of-the-country feeling.

There are walks ranging from a short wander around the point to much longer stretches of the South West Coast Path. Wildlife is another reason to slow down, with plenty to look out for both along the cliffs and offshore.

For me, this is one of those places where the pleasure is simply being outside and seeing what happens to be around that day.

Coverack

Head around to the eastern side of the peninsula and the character changes again. Coverack stretches around a sheltered bay, with its little harbour, cottages and fishing boats making it one of my favourite villages on the Lizard.

There is plenty of history tucked into the village too, but you do not really need an itinerary here. Have a look around the harbour, wander through the village, find something to eat, sit by the water for a while and see where the day takes you.

The Helford River

The northern edge of the Lizard Peninsula meets the Helford River, where the scenery changes once again from exposed cliffs to wooded creeks and quiet water.

Frenchman's Creek is probably its most famous corner, thanks to Daphne du Maurier's novel of the same name. You can reach the creek on foot, while other paths around the Helford lead through wonderfully peaceful countryside and along the water's edge.

The Helford has a gentler feel than the Atlantic coast. Boats drift through the estuary and wooded banks come right down to the water. It is easy to see why writers, walkers and anyone with a fondness for boats have been drawn here for so long.

Church Cove and a little Poldark history

There is plenty of history around the peninsula, along with the occasional familiar view from television. Church Cove at Gunwalloe, with the little church of St Winwaloe tucked beside the beach, was one of the Cornish locations used during filming of Poldark.

Even without the television connection it is worth visiting. The church, beach and rugged coastline give this little corner of the Lizard plenty of atmosphere of its own.

That is part of what I love about this area. Stories of shipwrecks, smugglers and old fishing communities seem to sit very naturally alongside the landscape rather than feeling like something added for visitors.

Roskilly's Farm

Coming slightly inland, Roskilly's near St Keverne is another place we have returned to as a family. The ice cream may be the obvious attraction, but there is rather more to it than that.

It is a working organic dairy farm where you can see the animals, wander through the ponds, meadows and woodland, stop for something to eat and, naturally, make time for an ice cream.

We spent a very happy day here once, with sunshine, gentle walks and rather a lot of tasty things. Those are often the days in Cornwall that stay with me most: nothing especially complicated, just a lovely place and enough time to enjoy it.

You can check current opening information on the Roskilly's Farm website.

A corner of Cornwall worth slowing down for

I keep coming back to the Lizard because it still feels like a holiday within a holiday, even when you already live in Cornwall.

You can fill a day with beaches, coast paths, villages and places to visit, but you do not really need to. This is also somewhere to sit by a harbour, watch the sea, take the long way home and leave a few things unexplored for next time.

And there will almost certainly be a next time.

Additional photography: Lizard Point by Praveen Goonathilake on Unsplash. Coverack Harbour via Wikimedia Commons / Geograph.