Day-tripping on the Helford River

This is why I love living in Cornwall: a routine appointment can turn into a beautiful adventure! I had to take my mum to the hospital for a check-up. As it was early in the morning and already a bit of a trek for us to get there, we thought, let's make a day of it. Mum wanted peace and tranquillity, so the Helford River came to mind.

It really is that perfect escape, a little bubble of old-world beauty that I just love to explore. I did my studies in Falmouth at the art college and had popped across the water to explore this area a little then, but it had been a while. This corner of Cornwall boasts the beautiful Trebah and Glendurgan gardens, both stunningly cultivated landscapes with little beaches of their own. Glendurgan has a wiggly maze as well, which is as captivating to adults as it is to children.

Helford Passage

After following the winding roads, we decided to stop off at Helford Passage. My thinking was to find a way Mum could enjoy our surroundings that didn't involve too much walking. There are some enchanting walks around here, especially in spring when the woods are carpeted in bluebells, but for Mum I knew what we needed was a good pub with a view and a boat trip!

Lunch at the Ferry Boat Inn

It was lovely to find reasonably priced all-day parking. We parked up and gently made our way down to the pub, although it is quite a descent. The Ferry Boat Inn is around 300 years old, with beautiful surroundings inside and out. The staff were so accommodating to our dietary peculiarities. We chose fish for lunch, far from cheap but delicious and fresh, the perfect accompaniment to our view.

I love sitting in Parisian cafés and watching people busily go about their business. I get just that joy sitting by the water and watching people 'messing about on the river': adventurous couples in their kayaks, children rock pooling with glee, gig rowers perfectly in rhythm and enough dogs to keep my mum smiling!

Crossing the Helford River

It was hard to pull ourselves away from our sun-drenched spot on the terrace, but we decided on a trip aboard the Helford River ferry to the other side, and the village of Helford.

The ferry is really rather little and on both crossings we were the only passengers, but our skipper was friendly and helpful as he expertly motored us around the boats and safely to shore. I love the calling system! Simply opening the yellow circular sign on the jetty shows the boat that you would like to be picked up, easily viewed across the water.

The ferry runs seasonally and is dependent on the tide, so it is worth checking the latest crossing times before planning your day.

We followed our feet along the footpath to the village, tickled by cow parsley and bluebells as we went. There is a lovely walk to the right through the woods that I would recommend, but today we kept things simple and popped into the quaint and excellently stocked village store and post office instead. We chatted to the lady who worked there, helpful as could be. I would love to have purchased more, but we just needed a stamp, so we were on our way.

Exploring Helford village

The pub here is The Shipwrights Arms, with roots dating back to 1660. Set over several levels with views to savour, this popular pub is full of life. We sat happily with our drinks, watching the wildlife below. Helford has a hotchpotch of thatched cottages and plenty of charm. It's hard to believe this little village was once a bustling port; commerce and haste all feel a world away. Soon it was time to catch the last boat back. Reliant on the tides, we just made it across, but it was close as the water was very low!

After purchasing some ice cream tubs from the boat kiosk, Mum enjoying the Lizard's finest Roskilly's ice cream and me a dairy-free chocolate caramel that was oh so good, we sat ourselves in dappled shade on the beach to relax once again in the warm May sun, neither of us wanting to leave.

More to explore around the Helford River

It was a sliver of a visit, but it certainly whet our appetites. We'll be back to explore more, I am sure. After all, this is the Cornwall that inspired author Daphne du Maurier and her novel Frenchman's Creek. Here you can also meet the seals being rescued and rehabilitated at Gweek, and there are plenty of gardens I would love to visit another time.

This is the land of smugglers' tales, myth and legend. You feel like you're dipping into the pages of The Wind in the Willows or Swallows and Amazons! The Helford River is just a lovely place to while away some time before heading back to the hubbub of daily life.

If this has put you in the mood for more time on the water, have a look at our guide to some of the best boat trips in Cornwall.