A Long Weekend in St Ives: Beaches, Art and Harbour Views

There is something about St Ives that makes even a few days away feel like a proper escape. One June, during a spell of spectacular weather, I took the opportunity to spend a long weekend there with my mum, and it really didn't disappoint.

I had visited the previous September and already knew how much I liked it, but with blue skies, bright sea and a few days to ourselves, St Ives felt like a little piece of paradise.

We found a light and airy self-catering place about 15 minutes from the centre. What I had slightly failed to appreciate was that those 15 minutes were mostly uphill. Oops. Still, comfy beds and a garden made the climb worthwhile.

Porthmeor, tapas and Tate St Ives

We started in style with dinner at Porthmeor Beach Café. Sitting beside the beach with a sea view and a table full of tapas is a rather good way to begin a weekend.

We had a little time before our table was ready, so wandered around Tate St Ives and stopped for a coffee, still gazing out towards the sea. By the time we ate, the sun was beginning to set over Porthmeor. Not a bad first evening at all.

An early start at Porthminster Beach

The next morning we decided to beat the crowds and get to Porthminster early. Properly early. It turned out to be a very good decision because for a while we practically had the beach to ourselves.

Porthminster is particularly handy because it sits right beside St Ives railway station, but it still has that lovely sweep of pale sand and views right across the bay. There are places for food and drinks, beach shops and deckchairs, so it is an easy beach to settle into for a few hours.

We braved a sea dip, although in my case only my feet really committed to the idea, and eventually headed back into town before things became too busy.

Lunch came from Harbour Fish & Chips. Mum and I found ourselves a spot to sit, eat, sketch the boats and indulge in a little people and dog watching. Sometimes that is all you really need.

Barbara Hepworth and one very good ice cream

That afternoon we visited the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, tucked away among the narrow streets of St Ives.

There is something wonderfully peaceful about wandering through Hepworth's studio and garden, seeing the sculptures in the surroundings she created for them. It feels very different from a conventional gallery and was one of my favourite parts of the weekend.

Then came the important business of finding an ice cream. Moomaid of Zennor did the job rather brilliantly. Generous scoops and fabulous flavours, with banana and clotted cream proving especially difficult to resist.

Out into St Ives Bay

For our final full day we were determined to squeeze in as much coastal time as possible. An early coffee at Yallah, overlooking the harbour, was a very good place to start.

We then headed out across the bay on a boat trip towards Godrevy Lighthouse. The sea was rather choppier than I might have chosen, but seeing seals basking along the way and looking back towards St Ives from the water made my slightly shaky sea legs worthwhile.

Godrevy has another connection that made the trip particularly special for us. Virginia Woolf spent childhood summers in St Ives and visited the lighthouse in 1892, while the landscape around St Ives later became closely associated with To the Lighthouse.

Harbour life and independent shops

Back on dry land, and after a little recovery time, we found some lunch and went exploring. St Ives is wonderfully easy to wander around, with narrow lanes, galleries and independent shops appearing at every turn. Some things were definitely tempting enough to test the holiday budget.

We spent our final hours sitting on the harbour beach, watching children play around the boats, dogs chasing balls and families making the most of the sunshine. There may also have been another ice cream.

Why St Ives works so well for a long weekend

What I loved most was that we never really needed a grand plan. Beaches, art, food, boat trips and shops are all packed into a relatively small area, but there are also plenty of opportunities simply to sit by the water and watch St Ives doing its thing.

Our early start for home even left enough time to stop in Marazion for a coffee at the Godolphin Arms, looking straight across at St Michael's Mount.

Quite a weekend. Cornwall really is a special place to live and holiday, and somehow I get to do both.